18
Feb

Pinch Blocks For Climbing Training - How to Build Them

 

 

This is an easy 2 hour project to create pinch blocks with variable sizing.

This way you can tie weight to the cordelette and train pinch strength for your next project!

I opted for 5 pieces on each pinch block. This size works for me. Some of you may want 6 or 4 pieces.

 

This is the step by step:

 

Tools & Materials:

 

  • 3/4" Birch Plywood
  • Mob Grip Tape (available at skateboarding shops; make sure to get the fine coarse for your skin)
  • Cordelette
  • Razor / Utility Knife
  • Drill
    • Dril Bits: one the size of your cordelette and a smaller one
  • Sandpaper Block
  • Tape Measure
  • Lighter
  • Pencil
  • Working surface
  • Saw and Gloves (optional)

 

Part 1: Cutting and Griptaping the Pieces

 

  • You'll want to cut 10 times 5" by 5 " pieces from your birch plywood.
    • If you ask the folks at Home Depot nicely they might cut these down for you since they don't normaly cut this size. If you're like me and don't have a saw, this'll help you not having to get one.
  • Once you have your 10 pieces, you'll want to sand down the edges a bit to clean up them up.
    • Gloves are nice for this part.

 

 

  • The Mob Griptape is 10" wide, making things easier.
  • You'll cut down 5" by 5" squares and apply them to the pieces.
  • NOTE: with 5 pieces, you'll want your middle piece to have griptape on both sides!
    • Your 4 other pieces only need griptape on one side: the side facing outward.
      • (See pics below for visualization)
  • You may experience having griptape go over the edge of your pieces.
    • Use the dull side of the razor to help fold the extra tape over, and then cut it off.
    • Sandpaper the edge down one more time to smooth it out.

 

 

 

Part 2: Drilling Holes and Tying it all Together

 

  • Use your tape measure to mark a drill location on 1 of your pieces.
    • I picked dead-center at 2.5" and 1" from the edge.
  • Drill a hole into this piece.
  • NOTE: This part is tricky to explain. Essentially you don't want your holes to be offset. So you use the first piece to guide the hole location on the other pieces.
  • Switch your drill bit to the smaller one.
  • You'll line up the first piece with another block (one on top of the other) and make small "guiding holes" going through the first hole down onto the new piece.
    • You'll repeat this process to have "guiding" holes on the 9 other pieces.
  • Switch back to the larger drill bit and make cordelette-sized holes on all 9 other pieces.
  • You should now have 10 pieces whose holes align about the same and you can make two groupings of 5.
    • If you double-griped 2 pieces on both sides, make sure to have one of these in each grouping.

 

  • Use your pencil to flush out the scraps from the holes.
  • Sand the pieces down a bit.
  • Cut equal length cordelettes, burn the ends, and run them through each grouping.
    • Tie with your choice of knot! I used a double fisherman's.
    • Remember to have the griptape facing outward.

 

You're all set! Have fun training and crushing your project!

 

 

 

10
Dec

Finger Training for Adult Beginners!

Intro:

 

This finger training methodology was put together for folks with regular pulley injuries, for those of us just starting out and wanting to injury-proof our pulleys, for those with chronic sore fingers after a day at the gym, for those of us who started after adolescence, and anyone interested in reducing the limitations of weak fingers.

 

The parts in bold cut to the chase

The parts in italics offer more background

 

I started climbing at 25 and after a few years realized that I was racking up 2-3 pulley injuries per year. Each injury would take me out of the game 6-12 weeks and affect my stoke for climbing. I eventually found my way to healthy, stronger fingers with this program. 

 

1) The KettleBell Test

 

You’ll want to pick up a kettlebell using a half crimp.

Here’s a good, refresher article on the open hand, half crimp, and full crimp positions.

 

Try starting with a 15lbs, 20lbs, or 25lbs kettlebell.

You’ll pick up the kettlebell using a half crimp on the bar.

Now, feel out whether you can do 10 reps of 20 seconds holding this weight.

Be conservative with your estimate.

Start small; you’ll ramp up over time.

 

Now that you picked your starting weight, let’s get into the details of the training plan!

 

So... after a few years of injury frustration and getting benched, it was time to do things differently. There are so many videos of superhumans like Adam Ondra beasting their way thru work outs with add-on weight. Those videos and workouts don't apply to someone who started late but we get tricked into thinking that being hardcore is the way to make strides.

So I wondered what kids have on adults? Why do they get sooo strong so young!? Sure, they have their hormones kicking in during adolescence that help with supportive tissue strength, but they’re also lighter, and way more mobile/flexible. I wondered if I could trick the body into adapting the way it does when you grow up... for that, I had to start with less weight and take a long-term approach.

I also borrowed some concepts from runners. Runners build supportive tissues by doing mileage, not explosive track workouts (so why add weight to your fingerboard routine when you’re building the supportive tissues?! It doesn’t make sense). Also, runners typically add 10% to the volume every 6 weeks! We'll come back to that concept later.

 

2) The Warm Up

 

Before we talk about the two methods for this routine, let’s talk about your warm up.

If you’re not warming up and giving a chance for your appendages to get blood flow and get mobile, this is an area to improve on. There are tons of ways to warm up either with dynamic activities on a mat, doing easy climbs, finger flicks for your fingers, “open hand-claw-duck-fist” for your hands, wrist rolls, shoulder exercises, jumping jacks, good mornings, air squats, yoga, etc.

Target all areas but also target areas where you know you’re tight or where you’ve had injuries in the past.

Do it until you feel blood flowing in your body and until you feel more limber. For example, my friend Zach does 100 movements as part of his warm up routine.

 

3) The Workouts!

 

Option #1:

 

Get a hang board. I recommend this bad boy because it’s made out of wood making it easier on your skin, and the 4 finger rungs feel ergonomic for my shoulders.

The Beastmaker 1000: Amazon.com: Beastmaker 1000

 

Get a pulley system so you can put your harness on, tie into a cordelette, and on the other end of it attach weight! (More on that later). 

Steph Davis has a good article on pulley systems on her blog.

 

Let’s go back to the kettlebell test.

Let’s say your starting weight on each hand is 25lbs; so 50lbs total across both hands.

We’re going to remove weight from the system by using the pulley system you set up underneath your hangboard.

Meaning you’ll tie in and attach weight on the other side of the cordelette.

So, if you weigh 150lbs, we need to tie 100lbs to the other side of the cordelette.

This way, you’re doing hangboard hangs with 50lbs spread across your two arms, therefore 25lbs on each arm!

 

I bought kettlebells (25lbs, 35lbs, and 45lbs) for home work outs and I have light dumbbells (2x 4lbs & 2x 6lbs).

I put the small dumbbells in a bag and tie the bag and/or the kettlebells to the opposite side of the cordelette for the counterweight.

Amazon.com: Kettlebells

Amazon.com: Dumbbells

 

The workout is 3 sets total:

(You’ll rest to full recovery between each set, or roughly 5 minutes.)

 

Set #1:

 

20 second, open hand hang on the 4 finger, 2 pad rung (the big ones)

20 second rest

20 second, half crimp hang on the 4 finger, 1 pad rung(the smaller rung under the big one)

20 second rest

20 second, open hand hang on the 4 finger, 2 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, half crimp hang on the 4 finger, 1 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, open hand hang on the 4 finger, 2 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, half crimp hang on the 4 finger, 1 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, open hand hang on the 4 finger, 2 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, half crimp hang on the 4 finger, 1 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, open hand hang on the 4 finger, 2 pad rung

20 second rest

20 second, half crimp hang on the 4 finger, 1 pad rung

 

Rest to a full recovery

 

Set #2 (same as #1)

 

Rest to a full recovery

 

Set #3

 

Why 20 seconds hangs and not shorter hangs?

We’re training your supportive tissues and letting them know that this type of stress is the new normal. We’re not wrecking your finger pulleys with extra weight or hard rungs, they don’t heal fast enough.

It’s a slow adaptation.

 

Option #1 does a decent job of training aerobic fitness. You’ll see early gains in your endurance before you notice overall finger strength gains that translate into limit bouldering. These early aerobic gains will help your endurance and roped climbing.

 

So that was 1 work out.

You’ll do a total of 12 of the exact same workouts over 6 or more weeks.

This will count as your first cycle.

Your first cycle might be boring because it’ll feel easy. It might even feel like you’re not getting anywhere with it… just roll with it. Remember, we’re training your body to adapt slowly over time.

So bust out the music, or the podcasts, talk sh*t to your roomie, sweet talk your SO into cooking dinner while you work out; have fun!

 

After you completed your first cycle you will add 10% to your starting weight.

Our starting weight was 50lbs, so we’ll go up to 55lbs.

If you’re 150lbs, this means you’ll now tie 95lbs to the other side of your pulley system.

 

Go thru another 12 workouts for your 2nd cycle, add another 10% weight, and so on.

 

Listen to your body as much as possible!

Fractured an ankle? Great! (I mean, not great) but now you can probably do these every other day for a while. But if you’re climbing and doing these workouts, you’ll want to rest plenty.

Since hangboarding is more controlled than say bouldering, it’s best to do these workouts the day after a hard bouldering sesh. They can also be good to bring blood flow to your forearms and fingers to flush out any soreness.

Overall, air on the safe side. Just listen to your body and take it easy. It will pay off!

 

Ramping back up to your body weight may take 2-3 years.

It may seem like a long time, but it really isn’t in the grand scheme of things.

As Steve House and Scott John say in "Training for the new Alpinism" we're focusing on Continuity, Modulation, and Gradualness.

 

I’m writing this on 12/2/2017 and haven’t had a finger pulley injury since 12/23/2016.

That’s a record for me! I tried everything from 2012 to 2016 and this is what gave me the results I was looking for. As far as my performance goes, I climb V6-V7 regularly now (My benchmark is the same gym and plastic). When i’m at the top of my bouldering game, I project V8. I also lead 5.12b and am soon going to try 5.12c for the second time! I nearly flashed a softer 5.12c a while go. Total surprise! And you can imagine, i'm psyched, having fun climbing without the worry of hurting myself, and I can focus on trying hard.

Okay, it’s not all perfect: I did pull something in my hand on a v8 pinch 5-6 weeks ago. It’s probably a lumbrical injury! Not a finger pulley tho. I wonder if using this same method with pinch blocks could help with rehab and overall lumbrical/supportive tissue strength in that part of the hand! I’m testing this out.

 

Option #2:

 

Get some Crimpwerks (or build your own) and some slings:

Amazon.com: Crimpwerks Finger Strength Trainer

Amazon.com: Black Diamond Slings

 

Let's go back to the kettlebell test: What's your starting weight?

You'll tie the singlehand weight to each Crimpwerk.

You’ll then hold the crimpwerk in a half crimp position (both arms), and carry the weight for each rep as if you're doing a farmer's carry.

 

Since this isn’t a hangboard workout you can’t swap between rungs of different sizes, so we'll focus on the half crimp position.

Your work out is 3 sets total:

 

Set #1:

 

20 second carry using half crimp position

20 to 60 second rest

20 second carry using half crimp position

20 to 60 second rest

20 second carry using half crimp position

20 to 60 second rest

20 second carry using half crimp position

20 to 60 second rest

20 second carry using half crimp position

20 to 60 second rest

 

Rest to recovery

 

Set #2

 

Rest to recovery

 

Set #3

 

 

4) A Recap on Cycles

 

Each cycle includes 12 of the same work out.

You’ll add 10% weight to each cycle and work your way back to your body weight across a couple years.

 

Again, there is no rush with this.

Listen to your body and back off at signs of strains, pains, tears, etc.

But if you do this well and with patience, I guarantee you’ll see cool results!

 

Modifications of this workout are great for training aerobic fitness.

Since the workouts create a lot of blood flow, and contain fairly long hangs, you’ll see some endurance gains that translate well to the ropes.

 

Tangent About Mobility:

Another thing kids have on adults is that they’re mobile AF. I recommend looking up hip mobility exercises and making sure yours are awake and engaged in hard moves; especially if you have a desk job! There are other workouts you can look up to help the core connect the foot to the arms.

 

 

HAVE FUN!

 

 

Thanks:

 

I borrowed ideas and got inspiration from several people!

Special Thanks to Zach Fletcher at MindBodyClimb for helping me be more self-reflective with climbing, and showing his way of climbing with "Courage, Love, and Resilience!" Thanks for all of your mind and body training tips Zach!

Another thanks is reserved to these gentlemen for writing great climbing, training books:

Steve House and Scott Johnston's Book: Training for the New Alpinism

Michael Anderson's Book: The Rock Climber's Training Manual

Last but not least, my early climbing coaching was with Kris Peters and Justen Sjong! Can't forget the early lessons!

Cheers!

 

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